The Last Ride

Monday is the last day of riding.  Recall I mentioned the last descent into Ketura in my last post?  It is about 4 miles of steep declines and switchbacks, followed by another mile of smooth slope down to the kibbutz entrance.  Well, what goes down must go up (unless you decide to ride the bus).  There is much debate about which climb of the ride is the hardest.  This one comes close.  It just goes on and on and on and on.  It's amazing how much effort can go into moving so slowly But I made it!

After a rest stop, we move out towards and along the Egyptian border.  Again, another long a beautiful stretch through the desert.   The border has become more dramatic since the incursions of several years ago.  What was once a simple barbed wire fence haas become a sophistocated high wire and electronic fence that now stretches from Gaza through the Sinai border.  It is a stark reminder of the hostilities that still prevail in this region.  And sadly it poses an environmental disaster, since it blogs the migration route of the many species for whom the border is a meaningless line.

We gather within sight of the fence for lunch - all 180 of us.  Much of the time is taken with photos of the various groups - regional, teams, alumni, riders over 65, riders over 70 (yes there were 3 of them.), and more.  Takes too long, but finally we are ready for the last stretch.  

We move out as a large group, for several miles of rolling hills (and a couple of long climbs).  I have just about run out of gas after 5 days of hard riding.  Then we stop at the apex of the the descent into Eilat.  A final safety briefing about speed and control (the one serious accident on this ride happened in 2010 when a rider lost control on this last descent and wound up terrible injured for life), and we are released one at a time for a thrilling 6 mile descent to the glittering sea.  The first half is through the same mountainous landscape we have seen for days.  But then the road turns and suddenly Eilat and the Red Sea loom ahead.  Across the bay is Aqaba, Jordon.  In the distance are the mountains of Saudi Arabia, and behind us is Egypt.  We can see 4 countries at the same time.

Everyone made the descent safely.  We stop in a park for popsicles (an odd tradition), and then we make our way to the edge of the sea.  What an accomplishment!!

Our ride has come to an end.  We have a closing ceremony that includes a slide show of the photos and videos taken throughout the ride (did I mention that they used a drone this year?? - when the show is posted on line I will post the link).  We thank the marvelous staff and crew of 80 of the most wonderful people you will ever meet.  And then party into the night.  (Though I don't last as long as the crew, who I think we on the beach until the very wee hours).

A couple days of relaxing in Eilat and we will be back in the States to face the new reality that awaits us.

I am sure I will have some reflections to add to this blog in the next few days... but for now I close this series of posts, full of gratitude for the opportunity to once again have (and share with you) this wonderfully moving and fulfilling experience.  

I end with prayers for peace and healing of the deep divides in our country.  I fear for the course we appear to be taking, but I hope that people of good will can find common ground, even in conflict, in the spirit of the Arava Institute, and that our future will not be dark.

Until next time,

L'hitra-ot,

Lester

A Day of Rest, Celebration, and then we Ride!

As predicted, Shabbat in Mitzpe Ramon was lovely.  A time to rest, reflect and re-energize.  The time that is perhaps the most moving is Havdallah - the ceremony that closes the sabbath and welcomes to new week.  We gather at an overlook at the Makhtesh - and as the first three stars of the evening appear we usher out the day of rest with song and dance.

Back to the hotel for dinner and early to bed, for tomorrow we ride!  But before then...

Sunday morning on the Ride we gather at the rim of the crater for morning prayers (for those who are so inclined).  But even if you don't choose to pray, the spirituality of the moment is palpable.  As the sun rises we chant to the beating of drums.  Wrapping oneself in a tallit and teffilin at the edge of such a wonderous feat of nature connects the ritual to world in a way that I have never experienced in any other setting.  We are greeted by ibex who come close - and this time by a large male who watched over us from above.

Soon we are ready to ride.  I can't decide whether today (Sunday) or tomorrow is my favorite day of the ride.  Today certainly counts as the most dramatic.  We begin with a thrilling descent into the Makhtesh.  One at a time we are released down the steep hill, through switchbacks that give us views in both directions (if you are brave enough to lift your eyes from the road for a second), and down to the floor of the Makhtesh.  We then ride several miles across, imagining the ancient Nabatians who new this as the spice route from Yemen to the Mediterranean Sea.  The climb out the other side is more gradual (such is the geology of the Makhtesh), and then we have a long day of riding through stark desert landscapes that are awesome in their expanse.

Every ride brings something new.  This year we had a large group of strong riders, and several times we have gathered into an organized pace line.  (For non-riders, this is a  group of riders staying very close together generating a wind draft that moves the group much faster with less effort). At times we are upwards of 25 riders in a double column, just flying along.  It's really fun, but takes a lot of concentration (to stay so lose but not hit the rider in front).

Since I am not the strongest hill rider, I usually fall off the line when we hit a rise - which gives me the opportunity to spend long stretches riding pretty much by myself.  I welcome these times of solitude as I take in the magic of the stark landscape, reflect on the importance of our mission - and I get to sing at the top of my lungs!

At the end of this day we have one last steep descent as we ride to Kibbutz Ketura and the Arava Institute.  We are greeted by the students and staff and other residents of the kibbutz as heros, embraced by their cheers, welcome signs, songs and dances - and beer home- brewed im our honor (they call it Route Beer).  We tour the facilities and listen to the stories that brought the students from such diverse backgrounds to this jewel in the desert.  Ketura is a place of beauty.  Surrounded by the mountains of the Arava Desert, with the peaks in Jordan so close you can almost touch them.  Sunset brings a splash of colors to the barren cliffs, and the night sky glitters with stars, and this year a "Super Moon," 30% closer and brighter than normal (This phenomenon with not recur in my lifetime).

There is so much to take in... but bedtime again comes early, for tomorrow we ride!

A Goal Achieved - and so much more

On Thursday night we heard form the mayor of the town we were staying in  - Yerucham.  He described his strategic plan for making this small town in the desert a center of high tech industry and culture.  He spoke of his vision for caring for all people in his community - fro creating sustainable, safe housing; parks that are clean and accessible to this community, and bringing together the diversity of his population - native Israelis, immigrants from all corners of the world, Bedouin communities.  It was visionary, but practical and inspiring.

But the reality of this ride is that by early evening we are all pretty pooped, so after this talk it was quickly off to bed.

Day 3 of the ride is perhaps the most difficult.  It is not the longest, but we have some significant climbs.  As with all mornings, we leave early and ride out of town. Within the first 20 miles we have begun to ride into Makhtesh HaGadol.  The slow descent into the valley portends a steep climb out.  I remember last time, when we rode this route towards the end of the day, I walked a fair amount of the climb.  This time I was determined - well more hopeful than determined - that I could make it all the way up.  As I expected the really strong riders zoomed ahead, and soon I could see them in the distance as they wound around the switch-backs up the side of the mountain.  The grade at some points exceeded 12% - I think closer to 16 or 17. I don't know whether seeing what was really ahead helped or not, but slog on I did.  And remarkably, when I made it the top, I thought we had another switch-back or 2 to go!  This was the marking point for me - could I achieve this ride what I could not last time... and I did!

Another highlight of this day is lunch at Sede Boker, which is a kibbutz and David Ben Gurion's retirement residence and is where he and his wife are buried. Ben Gurion was the founding prime minister of Israel and in his retirement he working in the dining hall serving his fellow kibbutzniks!

Funny story of the Ride: (so far). After lunch as we are preparing to leave, I came upon a guy putting on suntan lotion (and important accessory for riding in the desert). He had a couple of tubes so I asked if I could use some. "Sure," he says.  So I squeeze some onto my hand and begin to rub it into my bald spot (a lesson learned from previous rides).  My friend looks at me quizzically and asks, "is that for your helmet?"  My turn to be quizzical, as a explained about my bald spot.  "That's butt-butter," he says.  Wrong tube.  Took three hair-washings to get it out.

The climbing is not over for the day.  A long climb up to our next rest stop.  Which is just across the street from Israel's two maximum security prisons.  One for regular bad criminals, and the other for individuals who are convicted of political crimes - terrorists.  The Israeli who shot Yitzhak Rabin is imprisoned there.

Last climb into Mitzpe Ramon, the town that sits on the rim of Makhtesh  Ramon. A Makhtesh is an erosion crater.  Not formed like a canyon, but by wind and rain seeping though a mountain ridge, carving it out and flushing it away, forming a basin that gradually rises at the other side. So it is steep and sheer on the high end, and a gradual hill out the other.  Unlike yesterday, we will ride down the steep hill out, ride across the bottom and climb out the other side, finishing our day at Kibbutz Ketura, home of the Arava Institute, the cause for which we ride.

But first we have Shabbat.  A day of rest.  Much needed after 3 days of hard riding.  This is a lovely spot to spend a quiet day.  It is a time of gathering as a community.  We sing and dance the songs of Shabbat.  It is a time for celebration, but it is also the time on each ride when I feel the distance from home most acutely.  This year especially with the seismic election.  I don't have any particularly profound thoughts as a result... but it does reinforce the value of home and family.  I know numbers of people who have made the decision to live here... and they visit family from time to time during the year.  I don't think I could have done that - though I considered it in my younger days.

Photos of the last couple of days:

                                              A misty start to the Friday morning ride

                                             Getting closer to the climb.
                                         

 

                                              The beginning of the long climb.

                                              The Minutemenschen make it to the top.

                                           The top of what?  This: Makhtesh HaGadol!
 

                                      The bikes prepare for Shabbat

                                                       At Makhtesh Ramon

                                            Artsy shots.  Courtesy of Minutemenschen Michael Ross

The photos that I have for this post may be my last for the ride... i dropped my camera yesterday.  I will post more at the end when I get them from other sources... and I may cheat in a few from previous years.

Early to bed tonight.  Tomorrow we ride.

L'hitra-ot,



Lester

A flower in the Negev

Thursday is a hard ride.

So it is Thursday.  The earth is continuing to shake after the election.  There have been protests in the street - but also the beginning of serious thought about what a Trump presidency will be... it is still very scary. And hopefully it will galvanize the left into a meaningful opposition.  My biggest fear is the Supreme Court...  but I really can't yet put into words my thoughts and fears - I suppose that's part of a defense against trauma... it will still take time to process.

In the meantime, we are riding in Israel.  Yesterday we rode out of Jerusalem to Ashkelon.  A fast ride with not much climbing.  Excitement and a bit of nerves keep my heart rate a little higher than I would like... but we arrive in good shape, and in time to gaze out onto the Mediterranean Sea.

Today we rode south, close the the Gaza Strip, and into the Negev - the beginning of the desert ride.  I have written before about the magic of riding in the desert.  There is really nothing like it... the stark landscape, the heat - it indeed engages all the senses.  We rode 81 miles, with our first hard climbs, and finally rolled into the small industrial town of Yerucham.

                                                         Gaza City

Usual routine tonight.  A little down-time, a beer, dinner, briefing for tomorrow's ride.. and then early to bed.

Tomorrow will be our hardest ride - shorter than today, but some intense climbing.  We ride into a Makhtesh (The Makhtesh Gadol or Big Makhtesh), and then have to climb out.  There is about a mile of incline between 12 - 15%.  That's pretty steep,  I will write more about what is a Makhtesh later (it's an erosion crater - look it up on Wikipedia).  Then to Mitzpe Roman (site of a bigger Makhtesh) for Friday night and Shabbat rest.

Until then,

L'hitra-ot

Lester

Beyond Surreal

Friends,

When I wrote last night that it was surreal being here in Israel when there was such a momentous election happening in the States, I wrote with the full expectation that Hillary was going to win.  And I was thinking about the millions of voters who did not vote for her who were part of a divided country, split by fear, hatred and bigotry.  We woke up in Israel, 7 hours ahead of the eastern US, with the news full in our face and we knew that the unthinkable happened (for some of us).  What was surreal became shocking, depressing and terrifying beyond any civic experience in recent memory.  While you were still sleeping (most of you), we were riding out of Jerusalem, through the rolling Judean hills, through striking landscapes and thousands of years of history.  We had time to think and process.  The beauty of the ride was tempered by the news we were absorbing.  Everytime someone said, "How ya doing,"  we had to think about whether they were asking about the ride or our messed up heads.  By the end of the ride we were no less is shock or depressed, but perhaps a little less terrified, as we talked about the strength of our democracy and our civic institutions.  I have read Hillary's concession speech, and I understand that President Obama has spoken as well.  In defeat, their words represent the best of what we have to offer  as a light to other nations.

I really don't have it in me to describe our day today (and the internet connection is bad - so no pictures to share).  Suffice it to say that the Ride is always stunning.  It stirs all the senses and a range of emotions.  As odd a background as it was to the election, it was still beautiful.

I am sorry that I am not home with my family and friends tonight. But I am thinking of you.

Wishing all of us peace.

Lester

Itching to Ride

Tuesday is a tease.  Most of the riders are here.  Bikes are being assembled.  We get to take short test ride... which feels good... but a lot of waiting.  On the other hand it is good to sit with old friends from past years and new friends in the making.  Such a small world.  One guy who I know from 2014 and I are talking about our kids, and it turns out that Molly and his daughter are buddies from the November project - and she came to us last Yom Kippur (sadly for Molly she is now oin San Diego).  And then there is the food.  This is just one of the lines of options for the breakfast buffet.

Pacing is really important - in eating as in riding.... go too fast and too hard in either and your day is done.

The most common topic of conversation today though, is not about the ride, but the election at home. Our day is almost over, but the polls are just opening at home. The conversation usually starts with a dance around the topic as each tries to figure out the other's politics.  Suffice it to say that most of us are not fans of he who shall not be mentioned.  Whether or not we like Hillary, most agree that she is the only reasonable choice in this moment.  Ok, so nobody has admitted to supporting the other guy...  the worry, of course, is that there is a hidden mass of people like that who nonetheless will cast their votes.  I have no words of greater wisdom than have already been written or spoken...  i am mostly worried about what happens after the election.  Even assuming that Hillary wins there will have been 40 million people who voted for Trump - and there will likely be a hostile Congress that will making governing difficult, to say the least.  And it is surreal to be here in a Land with so much history and emotional pull at a time when, no matter what happens, the world at home will change tomorrow.

But tomorrow we do indeed ride.  I have told many of you about the three groups that ride - we have Hebrew names for them, but I describe them as the Bluebirds, the Robins and the Meshuggas.  Ok, the Hebrew names are Shomrim, or Guards, Tzofim, or Scouts and Chalutzim, Pioneers.  The Shomrim ride half days and tour half days, the Tsofim ride point to point, and the Chalutzim, well we ride extra miles just cause we can.  This is a rough idea of our route:

Tomorrow, Day 1, we ride from Jerusalem to Ashkelon in the Mediterranean Sea.  Got to go to sleep to be ready bright and early.

God bless us all on this night of uncertainty.

L'hitra-ot,

Lester

On to Jerusalem

There is something special about driving to Jerusalem.  From Haifa, and especially once you get passed Tel Aviv, the ride is mostly flat.  The new road (Route 6) is fast and you speed through fields and villages - there is construction everywhere.  But in the approach to Jerusalem, there is a fork - Route 6 bears off to the left taking travelers further south, and to the right the road begins to climb... and this is the first clue that something special lies ahead.

When a Jew moves to Israel, we call it "making Aliyah."  Aliyah means going up - we go up to Jerusalem, the shining jewel of a city on hill.  The old road was a trip through modern Israeli history - it was littered with the wrecks of makeshift tanks and jeeps, relics of the 1948 War of Independence, so the ride was full of drama.  The new road is a multi-lane highway - and truth be told, not much charm.. but still.... but still....  you are going up to Jerusalem.

For me it is also a trip down a personal memory lane, full of sights and sounds from the year I spent there when I was in college.  While much as changed, with a little effort I find the old neighborhoods,  many of which are strikingly the same as my memories.  And with luck (and courtesy of my cousin Hagai), there is a trip to the Mount Scopus campus of Hebrew University, with its classic view of the Old City, marked by the shining Dome of the Rock.

Ok, so I departed from tradition just a bit, and instead of searching out the best felafel in the city, I decided on shawarma...  not a bad second choice!

This evening will be a quiet visit with Hagai and Billy at their lovely house in the outskirts of the city.  And tomorrow on to Ramat Rachel where we will begin to gather for the official kick-off.  Monday is informal settling in.  Tuesday the bikes all arrive (I have mine with me), and we get started in earnest... but I am getting ahead of myself.  So I will stop.

Until next time.

L'hitra-ot

The Invasion Begins & a Pre-Ride Warm-up

In years past my trip to Israel for the Ride has been a solitary one.  Not this time.  Thursday evening no fewer than 20 Israel Riders (11 of them Minutemenschen or FOM) gathered at Logan Airport and crowded the security line -there were 17 bikes to be checked in (the rest are renting.. and at least two riders store their bikes in Israel year round).  The waiting time passed quickly as we exchanged stories of our training, our trips to the airport, and for newbies, more questions about what to expect.

Sadly there isn't anyway to make the flight itself go any quicker... but at least we had good company - and there is nothing like a non-stop flight to make you feel more confident that your bike will actually make to Ben Gurion!  But soon...

We are almost there!

Getting through customs was easy, and one-by-one our bags and bikes appeared from the bowels of the airport. Everybody except me left their bikes with the helpful Ride staff and wandered off.  I took my bike to the car rental place where they promised the case would fit in the tiny car I rented - and it did (barely).  Off I go to see Avner and Aviva on Kibbutz Usha, where I spent a semester when I was in college.  Avner is a cyclist, so it has been my custom to ride with him on the Shabbat before the ride.  We had a wonderful Shabbat dinner - and after a sound sleep, off we went for a 25 mile warm-up.

Except I didn't ride my bike - Avner had planned a trail ride, so I rode one of his... my first time riding off road.  It was fun - though I think I still like road riding better.   Also had a chance to visit briefly with Nancy, who was on our group from college and who stayed on the Kibbutz to this day.

Tomorrow I drive to Jerusalem to visit with family and hook up with the Ride for bike set-up, orientation and..... the Ride!

L'hitra-ot

Lester

The 4th Time is a Charm!

I wish I could address this post to all my faithful readers - but that would be unfair, since I have been such an unfaithful blogger.... it has been nearly two years since I have written here.  But as I prepare to embark on my 4th - yes 4th - Israel Ride, I am committed to reviving this series - at least for this trip.

I am thrilled beyond measure to be going back to Israel for this Ride.  As so many of you know, the Ride, and the causes it supports, have become very dear to me.  Especially the Arava Institute, with its vision of peace and co-existence among the peoples of the Land - rooted in the knowledge that the fragile environment that sustains all life there indeed knows no boundaries.  I am inspired by the work that goes on there everyday, and by the students and staff who have committed themselve to the joint effort of improving the conditions that foster growth - both in the soil and amongst neighbors.

And how absolutely cool is it that our team has grown to 20 riders!  Yes, there will 20 Minutemenschen and Friends of Minutemenschen (FOM) riding together this year - that's 20 out of 180 riders - we are a mighty force!  Watch for team pictures to come...

But first..... you have to pack the bike.

 I believe it is in there... and now ready to go....

So tonight, 11 of us will be on the flight from Boston to Tel Aviv.  From there we will split up and go our separate ways for a few days.  I will return to Kibbutz Usha near Haifa so I can ride a bit with my friend Avner (and hopefully visit with Nancy and others from college days when I was there).  Then on to Jerusalem to visit with family and join the rest of the Riders.  We will gather Monday and Tuesday, prepare our bikes and get ready to roll early Wednesday morning.

Words cannot adequately describe the thrill of riding through the Judean hills to the city of Asheklon and the sea.  From there we will go further south into the desert - where the riding experience is like nothing I have found elsewhere.  The experience of the Land from a bike is visceral - it comes through all the senses.  The sights, sounds, smells, touch, and even the taste of the that mystical place are vividly alive as we ride together as one.

I cannot close without once again thanking the many supporters of the Ride.  While I don't write this blog as a fundraiser, I do encourage you all to check out the ride at: www.israelride.org, and the organizations we support at www.arava.org and www.hazon.org. 

So, check back in over the next couple of weeks.  I will try to be a faithful recorder of this fantastic voyage.

l'hitra-ot

Lester