How Quickly Things Can Change

Today is Thanksgiving in the United States.  We have many blessings for which to be thankful.  At the top of the list this morning is the news that the cease fire between Israel and Hamas seems to be holding.  Barely three weeks ago we were celebrating our ride and the mission of peace that our friends at the Arava Institute embody every day, but hardly had we parted in Eilat and the region erupted into violence.  Such a mix of emotions.  Certainly no nation, no people, should be expected to tolerate a rain of rockets showered on them such as that being sent from Gaza.  Why Israel's response is called an offensive operation is beyond me.  While the conditions in Gaza are oppressive, I do not understand and cannot condone apologists for terror who claim the perpretrators are driven to violence by their circumstances.  We are human beings, and we have the power to choose our actions - terrorists and their leaders are responsible for their actions.  I believe that the vast majority of Israelis want peace... and most recognize that peace will only come when Palestinians are afforded the rights of statehood.  But there must be partners for peace... and where are they???  With this cease fire, Israel's statements are of hope for calm and peace - while Hamas, and indeed it seems the only members of the Arab world willing to speak out, talks of victory in its drive to defeat Israel - which means not peaceful co-existence, but anhilation of the Jewish state.  There is no moral equivilance here.  Israel brings massive force to bear, but it is not driven by a desire to eliminate a people - but rather to be left in peace.  Where are the voices of moderation??  Where are the voices of peace?  May the words that emanate from the Arava Institute be an example to the leadership on both sides - though I suspect that peace will come incrementally through the types of relationships fostered at the Arava.  I fear we do not have the type of leadership that will take this path.

To our friends and supporters of the Arava Institute, Our thoughts and prayers go out to all those in the region who find themselves in danger as a result of the violence which has erupted between Israel and Gaza. We hope for a quick end to the conflict and a return to quiet and safety for all. This renewed cycle of violence emphasizes the need for an alternative non-violent method to resolve the conflict between the peoples in the region. Though peace agreements seem like a distant dream right now, the only real hope for long-term peace and security is dialogue. The Arava Institute - its staff, faculty, students, and alumni - are dedicated to building bridges of trust in the region which can prevent future conflagrations. Leaders of the region should take an example from our Palestinian, Jordanian, Israeli, and international students. Even during times of crisis like these, they come together in friendship to air their differences and build trust by seeking that which unites and not that which divides. Through this crisis, as well as others in the past, our students meet on the lawn in front of their dormitories and exchange words, not bullets and missiles. It was Hubert Humphrey who said, "Peace is not passive; it is active. Peace is not appeasement; it is strength. Peace does not happen; it requires work." The conversations are often difficult and emotional, but they model a real alternative. We know that inevitably, both sides will seek an end to the fighting, bury their dead, tend to their wounded and begin to rebuild. We hope and pray that this will be the last eruption of violence to darken the skies of the Middle East and that the leaders of the region will explore new alternatives to peacefully resolve the conflict. The Arava Institute will continue to stand as a beacon of hope and to light the way. The Arava staff, faculty, and students remain safe on Kibbutz Ketura. We thank you for your concern and kind wishes during this time. David Lehrer Executive Director The Arava Institute for Environmental Studies  And so I close this ride's blog in an uneasy state of mind.  The memories of the ride are warm.  As with my first ride, the experience was spectacular.  The north was beautiful, and the desert was breathtaking.  I am eager to return... probably in  2014.  But along with the glow of the ride is the anguish of the recent violence.  I believe that sanity will ultimately prevail, but I fear there will be much more pain before it does.  As we give thanks for the many blessings we enjoy, my prayers are for peace in the Land. I imagine I will post more thoughts on this blog from time to time, but with these lines I close the 2012 Israel Ride.  See you next time. L'hitra-ote Lester

Timing is Everything

Timing is everything!  Eilat was flooded just days after we rode in.  Would have made that last descent a real slog!  Click here for the story and a video: Floods in Eilat

 L'hit,

 Lester

Highlights of the Ride - You've gotta see this!

Elahn Zetlin, fellow rider and videographer par-excellance has posted this video highlight of our ride.  You've got to take 23 minutes and watch this - it's the closest you will come to the ride without being there - and will perhaps inspire you to join us!  Click here:  Israel Ride 2012 Highlights!

L'hit,

Lester

Home Again

Well, Newark is not exactly home, but you get the picture.  I am back home in Lexington after a long day of travelling that started in sunny Eilat.  Quick flight to Tel Aviv, and a lot of time to wait for my flight home.  So friends who live in Tel Aviv picked me up for lunch and tour around parts of the city (where I have never really spent much time).  Then I was handed off to my cousin for dinner and back to the airport.  It took FOREVER to get through security.  Finally on the plane. I sat next to a young Israeli man who was heading to North Carolina for a short-film festival that he hopes will help launch his carrier, and an Israeli woman who had left her husband and children in New Jersey before the Hurricane - she said they had been without power for 10 days!  And I owe Robin a lot for leaving her with 3 days without power!

There is no way to make an 11 hour flight pleasant (unless you spend a zillion dollars to get one of those beds in first class), though I did manage to sleep for a couple of hours, I think.  As the hours tick by, the exhilaration of the Ride starts to slip away.  Work begins to seep into my consciousness, as do the chores that are waiting for me in my real life.  Of course, I am anxious to see Robin.  We think this is the longest we have been apart since we got married (Yes Virginia, that would be 34 years ago...).  But it is friggin's cold here... and damn it has started to snow!

We were in the air as the election here was taking place.  As we approached the end of the flight, the crew announced the preliminary results.  I think they did not want to wake anyone earlier with the news - and I suspect they did not want to announce a final result while we were still thousands of feet in the air.

Some facts about my ride:

According to my bike computer, I rode 354.30 miles, and spent 24 hours, 36 minutes and 38 seconds in the saddle. If I include the ride I took with my kibbutz friend, the total mileage over 6 days of riding was 417 miles.  I climbed 19,661 feet, descended 24,028 feet, and I burned 15,538 calories.  My bike computer does not tell me how many calories I consumed - but with all the Ride crew fed us, I imagine it was a close match.  I hope I stop getting hungry every hour and a half or so!  I hope I never again come within a mile of lemon-lime Gatorade - especially when it's warm.  Yuck!

I got pretty good at posting stuff on Facebook from my iPad, reconnected with a few folks who were on the 2010 Ride, and made new friends this round.  Several riders overcame great challenges to make it to this ride, and I was impressed by the strength and perseverance of all the riders - from the  youngest to the oldest among us.  My anticipation of the highlights of the Ride were confirmed.  The North is beautiful and lovely to ride through, but the South is inspiring.  There is nothing that compares to riding in the desert.

It meant a lot to me to become reacquainted with the Arava alumni who worked on the crew, several of whom I had met the last Ride.  I have written in earlier posts of my respect for their commitment and courage to break down historical and political barriers in this region in hopes of bringing peace a little closer to this troubled land.  

As the reality of this Ride begins to fade, I can't help but think about next time.  Tentative plan is to return in 2014 with a group from our synagogue (Nov 4-11, 2014 - mark your calendars).  But I was also inspired by a father-daughter pair who rode this year.  Maybe I can talk Molly into coming with me the year after (for my 60th birthday!).

I may have some more thoughts to add in the days to come, and I wll try to put some photos together
to share.  But until then,

L'hitra-ot,

Lester

We Ride to Kutera and then to Eilat!!

This will be a double post, since I was too beat to write after the ride into Ketura.

Before leaving Mitzpe Ramon we started with shacharit (morning prayers) at the makhtesh.  This is aa regular part of the ride experience, and it is very special.  As the sun rises we wrap ourselves in our tallitot, some of us put on teffilin, we sing, play the drums and watch the sun rise over the makhtesh as we recite the morning prayers.  So many of them evoke a connection with the waking of the day which we experience viscerally as the makhtesh comes to life.

We also had a special visitor:

Then we ride down, down, down into the makhtesh.  It is a thrilling descent that takes you back thousands of years to the time of the Romans and the Nabatian spice route (which went through the makhtesh).  

Me at the makhtesh before we ride down:

 If I can figure out how, I will post a video from our tour guide par excellance, Bill Slott explaining how the makhtesh was formed.  It is actually from a previous year.  This year Hadar explained in using chocolate cream puffs... but I don't have a video of that.

Of course, what goes down must go up, and we do have to climb out... The rest of the day is one spectacular mile after another.  Not too hilly and fast.  Until the final descent into the Arava Valley and the home of Kibbutz Ketura and the Arava Institute.   It is several steep miles, and yet another thrilling part of the ride.  Here is a link to the route.  From Mitzpe Ramon to Ketura

Ketura is one of the few kibbutzim that remains fully communal.  Founded in the early 70's, most of the original members were American immigrants. It has prospered and is now a comfortable place to live.  But walking around the campus, we are struck by how rugged those early years must have been.  We toured the Arava Institute and saw some of the exciting work they are doing, especially in solar engery.  They have developed a type of self cleaning solar panel that seems to be able to remove the desert dust from the panels (which cuts their efficiency) without using water (which is scarce and expensive)


I have written before of the special mission of the Arava Institute, which brings Arabs and Israelis together to work on the vital environmental issues that affect them all, regardless of borders, and through that work to bring us closer to peace.  I continue to be awed by the commitment and courage of the Arab students who take on this challenge, and who live in this land of conflict.  One of my riding colleagues told of a conversation he had with one of the Arab alumni on crew.  As a jet fighter flew over he asked what the crew member felt hearing jets that might soon be screaming over Gaza or the West Bank.  He shrugged, but as we rode past Nafha, the maximum security prison outside of Mitzpe Ramon that hold many Palestinian prisoners, he said, "This is what hurts.  I have family in there."  No answers.  Just questions.  And a reminder of how vital is this cause for which we ride.

Day five of the ride is from Ketura to Eilat.  It begins with a long slow climb back up the winding road we came down yesterday.  A much different experience.  The five minute thrill ride down is now a grinding hour long climb out (for those who wish an easier start to the day, there is the bus!).  And then one last dart through the desert.  It is a ride full of anticipation and drama.  Much has changed along the Egyptian border since I was last here.  As the result of a serious terrorist attack along this border last year, what used to be a relatively open border, with grand vistas into the Sinai, is now cut off by a high mesh and barbeed wire fence that runs the length of this desert divide.  It is a sad commentary on the ever present risks that confront this land.  It is also a potential ecological disaster, as the fence literally cuts off the migration of wildlife that of course knows no borders.  If some compromise is ot found, the potential impact on biodiversity is enormous.

The anticipation builds until we reach the point on the road that begins our descent into Eilat.  This is another spectacular descent (I see to use the word "spectacular" a lot in this blog...).  Riders are spread out for safety, so the ride is a solitary one.  One switch-back after another, and the Red Sea comes into view, with the mountains of Jordan in the city of Aqaba in the background.  And soon Eilat rises up as we near the end of the ride.  Everyone gets down safely, which is the main goal.  (Readers of my previous blog will remember that this was the scene of a tragic accident in 2010 when I first did this ride.  One of the first riders down the hill - an experienced rider - somehow lost control at high speed and fell.  He survived the crash, but was terribly injured.  There is not a hill that I go down that don't think of him.  Though I have never been a reckless rider, I am ever more cautious with speed on these descents.)  See the route here: Ketura to Eilat

Our ride into Eilat proper under police escort is triumphant.  With cheers and drums we arrive at the edge of the sea.  We have ridden from the northern most parts of Israel to the southern most.  We have seen vistas that defy descriptions.  We have tested ourselves and proven our mettle.  Most important, we have strenghtened our bonds to the land, gained a better understanding of the critical environmental issues it confronts and which is must meet, and have been inspired by a group of pioneers who show us that peace in this troubled land can be acheived if only our leaders can display the courage to do what they do every day of their lives. 

More later,

L'hitra-ot,

Lester

Shabbat at the Makhtesh

On the seventh day God rested.  And so do we.  Even though we have not been riding for 7 days, we've been working pretty hard.  As we packed the biked away yesterday, I had a fleeting thought of taking a shabbat ride around Mitzpe Ramon.  Today it never crossed my mind.  A little davening, a schvitz (steam AND sauna), a dip in the pool, and a walk up to the makhtesh.  It is a Big Makhtesh! These shots really don't do it justice, but take a look.

The highlight of the day is an opportunity to sit with Arava alumni to hear their stories and ask them questions.  The Israelis talk about environmental activism, and a commitment to peace though engagement with Arabs and Palistinians on a personal level.  They are committed, inspiring young people.  But I am even more inspired by the Arabs from Jordan, the West Bank and Gaza.  While the Israelis are simply going to another place in their home land, these courageous Arabs have left their homes, and in the eyes of many of their family and friends, have gone to the enemy. What drives them?  What moves them to take this kind of risk?  They are serious environmentalists for sure, but that does not explain their journey.  Of course each has a different  story.  They talk about being curious about their neighbors across the border.  Some come from families who were pushed out during the various wars in which Israel established itself or expanded its territorial reach.  Some have families who encouraged them to come, others the opposite. They are not sure that they can have an impact on peace, but each one - Israeli and Arab - seems compelled to be a part of change - however small it may be.  They dream of creating a trickle, then a stream and then a flood of connections, communication and dialogue that will someday bring peace.  Their vehicle is the environment, because that is one thing they all share, regardless of their borders, religions, or politcal leanings.  Even those who are not sure they are making a mark can acknowledge small changes.  Bara from Jordan told of his twin brother who was angry and confused that he came, but who came to know some of his Israeli colleagues when they visited in Jordon and is now ready to consider that this may be a path to peace.  This is not to say that their path is easy.  The students talk about their sessions discussing the conflicts that they experience on both personal and political levels, and it is clear there is a tremendous amount of work to be done.  But to a person they say that after all is said and done, they realize that they still must go back to work, to their dorms, and to their lives together. None is willing to accept the notion of failure, so they must learn to listen, to argue, to agree and to disagree, and then to carry on.  (I suppose it helps that they are isolated in the middle of the friggin' desert!).  So while the desert riding inspires me to pedal on - it is this vision of the possibility of peace - if not in this generation, then perhaps the next - that is the true inspiration.

As the sun begins to set, we gather at the Makhtesh for Havdalah, with songs and dance as we great the new week.

It is a joyful transition.  Tomorrow we ride down into the Makhtesh, and on to Kibbutz Kutera, home of the Arava Institute.

L'hitra-ot

Lester

The Desert is What Brings Me Back

Don't get me wrong.  The two days of riding in the north were fabulous.  Yesrterday's ride tested me and rewarded me with sights and sensations I have never experienced.  But the desert is why I came back. Of course, it is the cause that really brings me back, but there are easier ways to raise money for worthy causes.  Those of you who followed my blog last time (or who care to read back over it) know how struck I was by the experience of riding through the desert.   It is a spectacular thing - every sense is fully involved - the sights, the heat, the sounds - even the taste and the smell tell you that you are in a strange and wonderful place. Nothing that I have ever done matches this kind of all encompassing visceral experience.

What vistas!

So after yesterday's tough ride, I decided to take it down a notch and ride with the Tsofim (Scouts).  We rode about 48 miles at an easier pace.  I needed the more relaxed ride, and I truly enjoyed the extra energy I could devote to taking it all in.   Here is today's map  Tonight we are at Mitzpe Ramon, home of the Ramon Makhtesh (it's not a crater, it's a makhtesh... more on that later).  Tomorrow we do not ride, but rest on Shabbat.  This is a lovely spot to spend a restful day.

Funny shot of the day:

I hope it is an air conditioned van.

Just spoke with Robin on Skype.  We are a long distance apart.  I miss her.

L'hitra-ote

Lester

This was no Great River Ride

Day 2 was a doozy!

Yesterday I mentioned that I was glad I had done the Great River Ride with Tom a couple of weeks before leaving for Israel.  And I am still glad I did it, not the least because Tom is a candidate for Mensche of the Decade.  And it is a great training ride. BUT - althought the GRR has more total feet of climbing, they are spread out over the full length of the 90 mile ride.  Today's ride promised to be a different challenge.  My worries started out last night at our briefing for the next day (a ritual of this ride).  When they asked for a show of hands of who was going to do the long ride, I expected the same 12 or so  that do it every day.  8 of us raised our hands.  uh-oh.  But the ride leaders swore we could do it, and they claimed it would be the most beautiful of the trip (I'll bet they say that to all the routes...)  Fearless - or without good judgment, I joined the group of Chaluztim (Pioneers), who I think should be renamed Mishugga-im (I leave that tranlsation to you), and we embarked on a 90 mile ride up into the Golan Heights -  within spitting distance of Syria.  The climb - 5800 feet of it, was mostly over a 12 mile stretch of continuous climbing, starting at around mile 14.  It was one of the hardest climbs I think I have ever done, and I find myself riding with a much younger group of very strong riders.  Thankfully this is a Ride and not a race - and they waited (and waited and waited) for me at the top.  Here we are:

There were actually a couple of other riders still coming up the hill.  I was not the slowest!
Of course what goes up must come down.... and the descent was a nearly 6,500 foot drop over  23 miles  from the Golan to the Kinneret (The Sea of Gallilee).  This was probably the most thrilling ride I have ever taken - the road was clear and the drop just went on and on.  We sped by glorious scenery - and could feel the weather changing as we flew down the mountians.  Please don't tell my wife or my mother how fast we went (though I did not go as fast as some of the mishuggas I was riding with!).  Sorry - no pictures of the descent - this is definitely a hands on the brakes kind of ride.

But I have gotten ahead myself.  As we rode out of our hotel this morning and made the first turn onto the road, there was this car pulled up on the shoulder and someone was out waving.  (Israelis wave at us all the time.... and honk their horns - which drives riders crazy, but they are just being friendly).  As I got close, I saw it was Avner, who drove all the way up early to give us a send off at 6:30 in the morning - and he had Hi Fives for all!  The photo is a little fuzzy, but there he is!

 And then he raced ahead and did it all over again!  Two or three times!  It was a wonderful send off.

Did I mention that we were near the Syrian border???

There are land mine signs on both sides of the road - a reminder that this remains a potentially hot border.

Oh and they have live firing ranges too:

You probably can't read this... but at least they give fair warnng!

So we rode down to the Kinneret for lunch -and the most refreshing dip into the cool fresh water... riding clothes and all!  Then back on the bikies for the last 20 miles into Beit Shan, where we will spend the night.  I gotta tell you, those last 20 miles were tough.  Tomorrow is going to be interesting....  For those who like this kind of thing - here is the map of the day.  My GPS conked out at mile 65... but the whole map is there for the clicking:  Day 2

Speaking of tomorrow - we will start our day on a bus as we ride south of Jerusalem.. (not sure where), for the day's ride into Mitzpe Ramon where we will spend shabbat.

More later.

L'hitra-ot,

Lester