We Ride to Kutera and then to Eilat!!

This will be a double post, since I was too beat to write after the ride into Ketura.

Before leaving Mitzpe Ramon we started with shacharit (morning prayers) at the makhtesh.  This is aa regular part of the ride experience, and it is very special.  As the sun rises we wrap ourselves in our tallitot, some of us put on teffilin, we sing, play the drums and watch the sun rise over the makhtesh as we recite the morning prayers.  So many of them evoke a connection with the waking of the day which we experience viscerally as the makhtesh comes to life.

We also had a special visitor:

Then we ride down, down, down into the makhtesh.  It is a thrilling descent that takes you back thousands of years to the time of the Romans and the Nabatian spice route (which went through the makhtesh).  

Me at the makhtesh before we ride down:

 If I can figure out how, I will post a video from our tour guide par excellance, Bill Slott explaining how the makhtesh was formed.  It is actually from a previous year.  This year Hadar explained in using chocolate cream puffs... but I don't have a video of that.

Of course, what goes down must go up, and we do have to climb out... The rest of the day is one spectacular mile after another.  Not too hilly and fast.  Until the final descent into the Arava Valley and the home of Kibbutz Ketura and the Arava Institute.   It is several steep miles, and yet another thrilling part of the ride.  Here is a link to the route.  From Mitzpe Ramon to Ketura

Ketura is one of the few kibbutzim that remains fully communal.  Founded in the early 70's, most of the original members were American immigrants. It has prospered and is now a comfortable place to live.  But walking around the campus, we are struck by how rugged those early years must have been.  We toured the Arava Institute and saw some of the exciting work they are doing, especially in solar engery.  They have developed a type of self cleaning solar panel that seems to be able to remove the desert dust from the panels (which cuts their efficiency) without using water (which is scarce and expensive)


I have written before of the special mission of the Arava Institute, which brings Arabs and Israelis together to work on the vital environmental issues that affect them all, regardless of borders, and through that work to bring us closer to peace.  I continue to be awed by the commitment and courage of the Arab students who take on this challenge, and who live in this land of conflict.  One of my riding colleagues told of a conversation he had with one of the Arab alumni on crew.  As a jet fighter flew over he asked what the crew member felt hearing jets that might soon be screaming over Gaza or the West Bank.  He shrugged, but as we rode past Nafha, the maximum security prison outside of Mitzpe Ramon that hold many Palestinian prisoners, he said, "This is what hurts.  I have family in there."  No answers.  Just questions.  And a reminder of how vital is this cause for which we ride.

Day five of the ride is from Ketura to Eilat.  It begins with a long slow climb back up the winding road we came down yesterday.  A much different experience.  The five minute thrill ride down is now a grinding hour long climb out (for those who wish an easier start to the day, there is the bus!).  And then one last dart through the desert.  It is a ride full of anticipation and drama.  Much has changed along the Egyptian border since I was last here.  As the result of a serious terrorist attack along this border last year, what used to be a relatively open border, with grand vistas into the Sinai, is now cut off by a high mesh and barbeed wire fence that runs the length of this desert divide.  It is a sad commentary on the ever present risks that confront this land.  It is also a potential ecological disaster, as the fence literally cuts off the migration of wildlife that of course knows no borders.  If some compromise is ot found, the potential impact on biodiversity is enormous.

The anticipation builds until we reach the point on the road that begins our descent into Eilat.  This is another spectacular descent (I see to use the word "spectacular" a lot in this blog...).  Riders are spread out for safety, so the ride is a solitary one.  One switch-back after another, and the Red Sea comes into view, with the mountains of Jordan in the city of Aqaba in the background.  And soon Eilat rises up as we near the end of the ride.  Everyone gets down safely, which is the main goal.  (Readers of my previous blog will remember that this was the scene of a tragic accident in 2010 when I first did this ride.  One of the first riders down the hill - an experienced rider - somehow lost control at high speed and fell.  He survived the crash, but was terribly injured.  There is not a hill that I go down that don't think of him.  Though I have never been a reckless rider, I am ever more cautious with speed on these descents.)  See the route here: Ketura to Eilat

Our ride into Eilat proper under police escort is triumphant.  With cheers and drums we arrive at the edge of the sea.  We have ridden from the northern most parts of Israel to the southern most.  We have seen vistas that defy descriptions.  We have tested ourselves and proven our mettle.  Most important, we have strenghtened our bonds to the land, gained a better understanding of the critical environmental issues it confronts and which is must meet, and have been inspired by a group of pioneers who show us that peace in this troubled land can be acheived if only our leaders can display the courage to do what they do every day of their lives. 

More later,

L'hitra-ot,

Lester

Shabbat at the Makhtesh

On the seventh day God rested.  And so do we.  Even though we have not been riding for 7 days, we've been working pretty hard.  As we packed the biked away yesterday, I had a fleeting thought of taking a shabbat ride around Mitzpe Ramon.  Today it never crossed my mind.  A little davening, a schvitz (steam AND sauna), a dip in the pool, and a walk up to the makhtesh.  It is a Big Makhtesh! These shots really don't do it justice, but take a look.

The highlight of the day is an opportunity to sit with Arava alumni to hear their stories and ask them questions.  The Israelis talk about environmental activism, and a commitment to peace though engagement with Arabs and Palistinians on a personal level.  They are committed, inspiring young people.  But I am even more inspired by the Arabs from Jordan, the West Bank and Gaza.  While the Israelis are simply going to another place in their home land, these courageous Arabs have left their homes, and in the eyes of many of their family and friends, have gone to the enemy. What drives them?  What moves them to take this kind of risk?  They are serious environmentalists for sure, but that does not explain their journey.  Of course each has a different  story.  They talk about being curious about their neighbors across the border.  Some come from families who were pushed out during the various wars in which Israel established itself or expanded its territorial reach.  Some have families who encouraged them to come, others the opposite. They are not sure that they can have an impact on peace, but each one - Israeli and Arab - seems compelled to be a part of change - however small it may be.  They dream of creating a trickle, then a stream and then a flood of connections, communication and dialogue that will someday bring peace.  Their vehicle is the environment, because that is one thing they all share, regardless of their borders, religions, or politcal leanings.  Even those who are not sure they are making a mark can acknowledge small changes.  Bara from Jordan told of his twin brother who was angry and confused that he came, but who came to know some of his Israeli colleagues when they visited in Jordon and is now ready to consider that this may be a path to peace.  This is not to say that their path is easy.  The students talk about their sessions discussing the conflicts that they experience on both personal and political levels, and it is clear there is a tremendous amount of work to be done.  But to a person they say that after all is said and done, they realize that they still must go back to work, to their dorms, and to their lives together. None is willing to accept the notion of failure, so they must learn to listen, to argue, to agree and to disagree, and then to carry on.  (I suppose it helps that they are isolated in the middle of the friggin' desert!).  So while the desert riding inspires me to pedal on - it is this vision of the possibility of peace - if not in this generation, then perhaps the next - that is the true inspiration.

As the sun begins to set, we gather at the Makhtesh for Havdalah, with songs and dance as we great the new week.

It is a joyful transition.  Tomorrow we ride down into the Makhtesh, and on to Kibbutz Kutera, home of the Arava Institute.

L'hitra-ot

Lester

The Desert is What Brings Me Back

Don't get me wrong.  The two days of riding in the north were fabulous.  Yesrterday's ride tested me and rewarded me with sights and sensations I have never experienced.  But the desert is why I came back. Of course, it is the cause that really brings me back, but there are easier ways to raise money for worthy causes.  Those of you who followed my blog last time (or who care to read back over it) know how struck I was by the experience of riding through the desert.   It is a spectacular thing - every sense is fully involved - the sights, the heat, the sounds - even the taste and the smell tell you that you are in a strange and wonderful place. Nothing that I have ever done matches this kind of all encompassing visceral experience.

What vistas!

So after yesterday's tough ride, I decided to take it down a notch and ride with the Tsofim (Scouts).  We rode about 48 miles at an easier pace.  I needed the more relaxed ride, and I truly enjoyed the extra energy I could devote to taking it all in.   Here is today's map  Tonight we are at Mitzpe Ramon, home of the Ramon Makhtesh (it's not a crater, it's a makhtesh... more on that later).  Tomorrow we do not ride, but rest on Shabbat.  This is a lovely spot to spend a restful day.

Funny shot of the day:

I hope it is an air conditioned van.

Just spoke with Robin on Skype.  We are a long distance apart.  I miss her.

L'hitra-ote

Lester

This was no Great River Ride

Day 2 was a doozy!

Yesterday I mentioned that I was glad I had done the Great River Ride with Tom a couple of weeks before leaving for Israel.  And I am still glad I did it, not the least because Tom is a candidate for Mensche of the Decade.  And it is a great training ride. BUT - althought the GRR has more total feet of climbing, they are spread out over the full length of the 90 mile ride.  Today's ride promised to be a different challenge.  My worries started out last night at our briefing for the next day (a ritual of this ride).  When they asked for a show of hands of who was going to do the long ride, I expected the same 12 or so  that do it every day.  8 of us raised our hands.  uh-oh.  But the ride leaders swore we could do it, and they claimed it would be the most beautiful of the trip (I'll bet they say that to all the routes...)  Fearless - or without good judgment, I joined the group of Chaluztim (Pioneers), who I think should be renamed Mishugga-im (I leave that tranlsation to you), and we embarked on a 90 mile ride up into the Golan Heights -  within spitting distance of Syria.  The climb - 5800 feet of it, was mostly over a 12 mile stretch of continuous climbing, starting at around mile 14.  It was one of the hardest climbs I think I have ever done, and I find myself riding with a much younger group of very strong riders.  Thankfully this is a Ride and not a race - and they waited (and waited and waited) for me at the top.  Here we are:

There were actually a couple of other riders still coming up the hill.  I was not the slowest!
Of course what goes up must come down.... and the descent was a nearly 6,500 foot drop over  23 miles  from the Golan to the Kinneret (The Sea of Gallilee).  This was probably the most thrilling ride I have ever taken - the road was clear and the drop just went on and on.  We sped by glorious scenery - and could feel the weather changing as we flew down the mountians.  Please don't tell my wife or my mother how fast we went (though I did not go as fast as some of the mishuggas I was riding with!).  Sorry - no pictures of the descent - this is definitely a hands on the brakes kind of ride.

But I have gotten ahead myself.  As we rode out of our hotel this morning and made the first turn onto the road, there was this car pulled up on the shoulder and someone was out waving.  (Israelis wave at us all the time.... and honk their horns - which drives riders crazy, but they are just being friendly).  As I got close, I saw it was Avner, who drove all the way up early to give us a send off at 6:30 in the morning - and he had Hi Fives for all!  The photo is a little fuzzy, but there he is!

 And then he raced ahead and did it all over again!  Two or three times!  It was a wonderful send off.

Did I mention that we were near the Syrian border???

There are land mine signs on both sides of the road - a reminder that this remains a potentially hot border.

Oh and they have live firing ranges too:

You probably can't read this... but at least they give fair warnng!

So we rode down to the Kinneret for lunch -and the most refreshing dip into the cool fresh water... riding clothes and all!  Then back on the bikies for the last 20 miles into Beit Shan, where we will spend the night.  I gotta tell you, those last 20 miles were tough.  Tomorrow is going to be interesting....  For those who like this kind of thing - here is the map of the day.  My GPS conked out at mile 65... but the whole map is there for the clicking:  Day 2

Speaking of tomorrow - we will start our day on a bus as we ride south of Jerusalem.. (not sure where), for the day's ride into Mitzpe Ramon where we will spend shabbat.

More later.

L'hitra-ot,

Lester

First Day In the Books!

Today we finally rolled out as a group of Israel Riders from high in the Galilee, along  the Lebanese border, through lush farms, green forests and barren border lands.  We are REALLY far up there:

It was a long hard day, but it felt good to really push hard and see what I have in me.   The test today was a 5 kilometer hill that I swear was straight up.  An exercise in seeing how slow I can go and not fall over. But I made it!  If you are interested in seeing our route, click on this link.  Today's Ride  When I say border, I mean Border!!

Being that close to the border is a stark reminder of how small Israel is, and how close are her neighbors.  Driving through villages (kibbutzim) where folks have dedicated their lives to living in remote places that serve as lines of protection for the rest of the country is eye-opening. They live in the shadows  of tanks, watch towers and barbed wire fences... and they thrive.  How blessed it would be if they could live in peace.

As usual there is a wide range of riders here - some who ride hard and fast, and others who are not as strong.  I find myself somewhere in the middle, which I think is good... I find myself riding with lots of different people - each with a story of why he or she is here... this is a wonderful way to get to know people. And what surprises!!  A woman whose kids live in Syracuse and their kids will go to the high school I went to (I learned that AFTER I told her that Nottingham High was listed in the Wall Street Journal as one of the nation's most riot prone....  but that was in the 60's).  And my friend Tanya from the 2010 ride is back!

We stopped in the Hula Valley nature reserve, which has become home to over 40 thousand migrating cranes.  What a beautiful sight!

A word about our support staff.  They are mostly current and former students at the Arava Institute.  They come from Israel, Palestine, Jordan...and they all have wonderful stories and are absolutely terrific!!  More on that later I am sure.  But here are two of the stars:

I have been following the devastation of Hurricane Sandy.  It appears that Massachusetts was spared the worst of it, though NY and NJ got hammered.  Robin and Molly are still without power, there were trees down on the street, but it does not appear there was any damage.  I just got an email from my mother, so she has power back.  It seems odd to be here and not helping with this recovery - 'we joked in my office that there is always some disaster when I go away... but we did not mean natural disaster!  I hope that everyone has gotten through this storm safely.

Tomorrow is the longest ride of the Ride.  91 miles.  5800 feet of climbing.  Piece of cake!  :)  The Great River Ride is 7,000 feet.  Thanks to Tom Cheatham for making me do that a few weeks ago.

More later.

L'hit,

Lester

What was Lost has been Found

My camera, that is.  These wonderful women at the car rental place found my camera in the car i returned - I was even able to ask them about it in Hebrew!

Thank you Sixt car rentals!!!  and this means I can show you the photo of Cheri and me from yesterday:

We swear we don't look a day older... perhaps a few decades, but not a day!

Today was orientation and test riding.  Glad to have the whole group together.  I have written before about my riding friend David Eisenberg who battled cancer this spring and summer.  He arrived yesterday - fit and ready to ride!  What an inspiration!  The orientation meeting was WAY too long - over 3 hours!  there is much for them to say, I suppose.  I will try to get the Hazon and Arava powerpoints to post -as they contain inspiring messages.

I have a roommate.  Carl, who retired with his wife to Jerusalem.  I will enjoy getting to know him.

And tomorrow we finally start what we came to do.  We Ride!!!!  Can't wait!!!

L'hitra-ot,

Lester

A Bit of This and That

Today started off with a reunion.  Cheri Fox was one of the Lost Tribe of Usha (our group of kibbutz  volunteers in the winter/spring of 1974) who was part of the reunion effort our friend Dennis (another Usha-nik)  inspired over 6 years ago.  Though we have been in touch from time to time by email, today was the first time we have seen each other since we parted in 1974.  Cheri has made her home mostly in Jerusalem since college, and we met in a coffee shop on the edge of Rehavia.  (Funny note:  she gave me elaborate directions to the place, and it turned out to be in the apartment buildings that my parents stayed in when they spent 6 months here many years ago.).  We spent a lovely couple of hours catching up.  Not all of our stories are happy ones - but we both marvelled at how we have grown over the years, raised smart strong kids, and have in our own ways made our mark on this world we live in. Hopefully for the better.

I would show you a picture of the two of us, but DAMN!  I appear to have lost my camera!  Somewhere between my hotel room and returning the rental car it disappeared.  I discovered it was gone too late to call the rental car office - I will tomorrow, and perhaps some good soul found it and turned it in.  There are always people taking pictures during the ride, so there will be photos to see and share, but I do enjoy capturing my own shots.  Oh well.... easy come, easy go (we found that particular camera in the street in Boston one evening a year of so ago).

Through the magic of Facebook, I met up with a fellow rider who was in Jerusalem and needed a ride to Shavei Tzion where the ride is gathering.  His name is Mark, and he is an anesthesiologist from Texas.  We had an interesting conversation about health care reform (and biking).  I think it will be interesting to see if there will be much talk about the elections during our ride!

Tomorrow is registration and orientation, probably a test ride or two, and perhaps a walking tour of Akko, an ancient harbor city on the Mediterranean Sea.

My family and friends are being battered by Hurricane Sandy as I write.  We have lost power in Lexington, so I cannot Skype with Robin and Molly.  I am sure they are ok, though I worry just a bit.  Looks like a Most Powerful Storm.  I hope there is not too much damage and that all are safe.

We had a wonderful dinner tonight in Akko with a large group of riders.  Good food and good company.  It's going to be a great ride.
More tomorrow.

L'hit,

Lester